Beiträge von lfceline


    I have some tubes made for the navy to be used in a gyroscope. I think the brand name was Sperry ( name of the person who invented this design). I cannot imagine that they will send a submarine away for a long journey with a gyroscope containing tubes that would not be perfect.

    Of course a durable tube with the right specs does not automatically give you a good sounding tube.

    But i do know that rectifier tubes made for the army many decades ago can be used for more than 10 years without any problem. Of course i use them with choke inpt which gives them a much easier life.

    greetings, eduard


    Especially in wartime , like when the 6SN7 and 6SL7 i have, were manufactured. The big tube companies were producing tubes for each other.

    One thing was sure these tubes were designed and made to last long time. These companies were proud of the products they made.

    Nowadays things are made in such a way that they will not last to long.

    At my parents house we had a kind of hobby space without heating where we had an old tube German ( Grundig/Telefunken/Saba?) '' table radio) using 6 or more tubes. Whenever there was someone there with his Zundapp this radio was used. I dont remember any tube replacement!!

    Greetings, Eduard

    Ich mache es in etwa genauso. Nur in etwas kleinerem Massstab,

    Hello Mario,

    I think the Russian tubes cost between 2 and 3 Euros so not that difficult to buy 60 stuck. No matter what will happen prices of these tubes will not go down. It appears that many times the tubes made when there were tube factories in most of European countries are better than most modern tubes.

    The tube in the photo comes from old stock from the French army made in the sixties. I was told that every few years they would test them all and seal them again plastic. I bought them to use them in a Pultec phonostage but i changed plan sold most of them and used the money to buy other tubes.

    Will probably sell the 6SN7GT to finance E182CC which is a long life tube so hope 15 of them will be enough for the rest of my life.

    Greetings, eduard


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    First picture . Direct coupled single ''power '' amplifier. Input tube 1/2 E80CC and output tube VT25(A)/10Y Western Electric ( second photo) or Neotron ( first photo)

    Third photo VT4C/211 single ended with if i remember correctly German input tubes from audiophile friend in Vietnam

    Greetings, Eduard



    Sorry for writing in English but my German writing skills are close to zero BUT i can read German.

    I do have about 30...35 6SN7GT produced for American military in 1943...1945. There are a few Kenrad but most of them are Sylvania.

    When i have a certain tube gear that i expect to use for a long time i will try to find a stock so i can use it for decades without ever buying new tubes again.

    Recently someone designed a tube based power supply for a line preamp. Originally this supply would need two E182CC tubes but i asked the designer to adjust the design ( and pin out) so the Russian '' equivalent '' can be used and bought about sixty of these tubes to have a life time stock.

    A few years back i bought a phonostage with tubes. Most of the tubes it uses are cheap so easy to get a little stock. Two tubes are available but usually 40/50/60 Euro so a bit more difficult to buy 20 of each tube.

    Usually using the tubes that were made for military will have a very long life.

    Greetings, Eduard


    Sorry for writing in English!

    In the past everyone had the idea that German people like to buy quality.

    I have a few Knipex tools that i have been using for decades. If you use them regularly it is a GOOD investment.

    I know there are a lot of different type of crimping tools and usually the good ones are expensive. IF you plan to use a certain tool every week it is a a good idea to buy a good one. So you will know every crimp you make is perfect. If you need to make 20 crimping connections just find a professional in your neighbourhood and give him a nice bottle of wine if he will explain to you how to use his crimping tool and if you can take it home during the weekend.

    I read somewhere that some people will buy a 400 Euro drilling machine and use it every year for just SEVEN minutes. That is an expensive drilling machine!

    Some people will buy a very cheap one because they will use it just a few minutes every year and because it is not a good one every time when they use it they want to have a better one. Find a friend who bought a good one and buy the quality drills you will be needing. Dont buy 6 drills for 5 Euro at Aldi. Give the drills to him when you finished your job unless you know you will have to make the same holes again a few months later.

    Of course this is a hobby and a hobby cost money.

    I have been soldering for decades and always have used manual desoldering pumps. I knew about the desoldering stations available but i thought these are for the professionals until recently i said to myself i wish i had one and used the internet to find one that works but is not considered a professional machine.

    I bought one with some '' maintenance tools '' and spare parts for around 130 Euro.

    Using this now takes 10 minutes for something that in the past would have taken me 2 hours with results that were only so so.

    Greetings, Ezd-8915.jpgduard

    Hello Mirko,

    Suppose you have a turntable with a DC input connector and you have a separate power supply with a DC output connector the easiest thing to do is look at which side it will be the easiest to change the plug/chassis part by a direct connection with a strain relief.

    Usually the chassis part of the connection will just have a low or maybe basic quality ( BUT they still want you to buy a 100? euro cable with fancy gold plated plugs because that will improve things)

    Just find a connector that can withstand the voltage/current and that can only be inserted in one way and one that will fit without adjusting the original hole.

    The output plug on the Feickert power supply is of course much better than the gold plated bling bling stuff in the pictures posted here. Using gold does not make it a good connector. IF you want the gold to give you a benefit both parts of the connection should be gold. What you really need is a good connection, a good grip.

    Greetings, Eduard


    When i see the kind of plug being used the first thing i would try to do is trying to get rid of the plug and chassis part for something similar like the one in the attachment , cost less than one euro surely better than all available brands of the kind of plug pictured above. These ok are for a charger from Aldi. IF you have to use them use both parts from the same brand. Making the plug gold plated and the chassis part plain material wont make things better.

    A 500 Euro supply with this kind of connector is a joke.

    Greetings, eduard


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    I have read again the French publications about this arm . They have been '' heavy users '' of the 3012 because it works well with both the DL103 and the SPU gold. These cartridge are both heavy AND kind of generate a high level of vibrations that need to be tackled by the arm.

    I have been using the aluminium 64FX for my SPU then a Vietnamese friend told me to get the stainless steel 64S. Indeed much better. I improved it myself by asking a coworker to machine some parts that were sold by Fidelity Research to add more weight and rigidity to the arm. Simply apply some law of physics. WHY you want a pulley on a turntable motor not to be mounted on a long shaft at 5 cm distance from the motor? Of course RPM is low and a pulley is not so heavy so theoretically it wont swing much. BUT if you mount is as close as possible it has to swing less. So a heavy weight. Maybe even a conical shaped one that will react different to vibrations for sure.

    Greetings, eduard


    I never took a very detailed look at the SME 3012 because for ME it looks to fragile ( i preferred the Fidelity Research 64S). But if you have a steady hand it will be perfect.

    If you look at it with some '' physical laws '' in the back of your mind some ideas will pop up.

    You have the DL103 which is a nice cartridge which will work better with the lead housing designed by the French decades ago. Using this housing you will probably need a heavier weight. Of course the best thing to do is get the weight as close as possible to the bearing.

    What I would do is check the maximum diameter of the weight that will fit in your set up. Then make its weight have enough to be able to mount it close to the bearing. Copper has 15% mass than steel so that could be a nice option too. I think this kind of thing can be machined by any student from a technical '' fachhogschule ''

    There has been a British company that sold a contra weight as a modification to a British tone arm where the center hole wasnt in the middle telling us it would create a better functioning of the arm because the '' center of gravity '' would be below the arm. BUT it could be harder to have equal weight in the horizontal plane.

    Greetings, eduard


    I must have some of these Isoda cables somewhere in my collection.

    But they were hard to solder because it consisted of different metals( like all the Isoda cables) and aluminium needed a kind of '' presoldering '' before a standard solder could be used. Back then not a lot of teflon was used so those Isoda cables allowed you to get a very NON rigid connection between the arm and prepre or transformer. Spu gold and DL103 the all time favourites in France preferred heavy arms BUT you dont wanna spend a few thousand euros on your analogue front and then have the vibration enters your arm by the garden hose that is connecting it to the first element in the rest of your system.

    Of course if you buy a 800 euro arm cable that is 1 meter long ( while you need 35 cm) you wanna show it so you make a loop ( a shape of an aerial) on the support so everyone will notice it and it will have the bigger contact area possible to pick up vibrations.

    Greetings, Eduard



    So how to improve the performance of the Verdier without mutilating it?

    I am sure that if you drink a nice German beer or a French wine while listening to music it will sound better.

    When you see your OWN diy turntable isolation platform while enjoying music it will probably sound better. But some people need to see something that did cost them one month savings to get convinced it sounds better with this new platform.



    Even a Verdier turntable can be modified to sound different. Many times us simple diy folks cannot add something that will make it sound better IF it is in 100 % condition. Even very well designed things can be made to sound different. BUT the real worldclass products are difficult to change in such a way that a blind test panel will all say it is an improvement.

    I remember at work we had such a special granite table for doing extreme precise measurements. This one had to be relocated and it ended up in an area with some machinery close by. During the evening when there were just 3 people instead of 20 people working the measurements results where more uniform than during day time.

    JUST like most sound systems sounds better during night time because of less pollution on 230 volt line and less surrounding noises.

    It is all pretty basic even a Verdier can be made to sound better if you give it a good support. If you dont try it you wont know it if you dont believe me. I am sure the extreme Verdier turntable ( the one made to order) can also work when it will be just 250 kilo.


    Good idea to make it possible for one man to carry. BUT usually the platter is installed after the '' base'' is already in position.

    So make an isolation platform and fill it with sand once it is where it should be.

    I once see the Paris people from l'Audiophile busy with transporting the sandfilled Onken bass bins 320 kilo but it had wheels.

    I bought some speaker material when i was in Cameroon but it never arrived here!!

    Greetings, eduard


    Sure if you wanna eat the bird better not use a big caliber.

    BUT if wanna prevent the neigbours cat to scare my expensive singing birds i will make a diy electric fence to teach him. If he keeps common back i will turn the variac all the way up.

    SO if i wanna build a sandbox for my turntable and the price difference between 200 and 300 kilo is just some extra sand i will go for 300 kilo.

    Greetings, eduard


    Ähnliche Steinplatten kenne ich übrigens von Wägetischen wo sie als ruhige Basis von damals noch mechanischen und hoch empfindlichen Mettler-Analysenwagen dienten. Damit hatte ich während meiner Lehrzeit im Anorg. Chem. Inst. der Uni Heidelberg zu tun, in den Sechzigerjahren.

    Solche schweren Wägetische wären übrigens weitaus besser als Unterlage für Plattenspieler geeignet, als manche windige High-End Rackkonstruktion, die man im AAA ab und zu sieht.

    Happy you explain in German what i wrote in post 584. These things have been around for decades and laws of physics dont change often. lol. A few days ago i saw one completely made from a kind of slate. Close to 270 kilo.

    Greetings, eduard